"Chefs do not want the head of Waters, but they do want her throne, and they want an end to the worship of simplicity. 'The church of the philosophy of Alice Waters had a lot of followers, but nobody went outside the box,' says McNaughton. They're beating up on her beloved farms, too. They dislike having to spell out on menus where products were grown or raised, or in the case of seafood, the boat it rode in on."

I love SF dining, and the myriad choices, but isn't it kinda odd that we're in a world where additives are rammed into most the flesh your family eats, and mercury-fish is only a poorly chosen bite away, and suddenly we couldn't care less "what boat it rode in on".

I love encountering new approaches to food, but I'm not at all interested in a new 'nature's choice' menu - where whatever you just swallowed might have recently died of 'natural causes', or under suspicious circumstances.

Read More http://www.gq.com/food-travel/alan-richman/201107/best-restaurants-san-francisco#ixzz1iDWh5dZj